穂先凍結と午後からの降雪。残雪期アルパインの覚悟で

Mount Yari summit currently experiences partly sunny skies with a temperature of -0.6°C, feeling like -4.1°C. The significant 11.3°C temperature difference from the base highlights the severe conditions of a 3000m alpine environment. Although winds are light, caution is advised against hypothermia when stationary on the exposed ridges far above the tree line.

While the morning will see clear periods, temperatures will hover around 1°C. The 147cm snowpack may soften in places. Ground conditions are a mix of residual snow and exposed rock. Notably, the successive chains and ladders on Yari's summit ridge are highly likely to be icy, posing a significant risk of slips and falls. The risk of rockfall and sliding directly below the summit is also elevated.

By approximately 3 PM, heavy snow is expected to begin, with temperatures dropping back below freezing. An additional 0.84 cm of fresh snow is forecast. An automatic risk assessment indicates a rapid temperature drop of 6°C over the forecast period. Be prepared for sudden changes during your ascent by carrying an extra insulating layer. Make a timely decision to turn back if conditions deteriorate.

Recommended layering includes a wicking base layer, a fleece or light down mid-layer, and a waterproof/breathable shell as an outer layer. A thick down jacket is essential for stops or emergencies. Crampons and an ice axe are mandatory throughout the day. A helmet is also crucial for protection against falls and rockfall in rocky terrain. Waterproof and breathable rain gear (jacket and pants) is necessary for afternoon snowfall and cold night temperatures. Climbing Mount Yari at this time of year is extremely dangerous without prior experience in spring alpine conditions and appropriate gear. Even experienced climbers should aim to complete their summit attempt in the early morning and begin their descent before the afternoon snowfall.